August 17, 2013

Slingshot / Catapult WIP

Today after clearing some invasive Jujubee from the backyard, I found a few nice forks. If you're not familiar with Jujube, it is a very strong and dense wood. Anyway, one of the forks stood out and begged to become a slingshot.

This one is going to be an Over The Top shooter (OTT) equipped with bands rather than tubes. Though I've made a few cattys, this is going to be my first natural (not counting ones made in my childhood). Over the next day or so, I will post the few steps involved in completing it. Thanks for following along.

April 19, 2013

1084 and Mesquite EDC

Blade Material: 1/8" 1084 (Aldo)
Handle Material: Two Tone Stabilized Mesquite from West Texas
Hardware: Stainless Steel
Finish: 400 grit Hand Rubbed (easy to touch up after hard use)
Blade Length: 3"
Blade Height: 1 3/16" (at highest point)
Blade Grind: Full Flat Grind
OAL: 6 1/2"

Price without sheath: SOLD (shipped anywhere in the USA)
Price with leather sheath: SOLD (shipped anywhere in the USA)

***Sheath adds 3 days to shipping***
International shipping: Varies by country please email me for details.

Place Holder 3

Place Holder 2

Place Holder 1

Place Holder

October 30, 2012

Wa Handle Update 3

Part three of a lengthy tutorial. I've chosen to keep it basic so that even those with few tools and little experience can achieve like results. Keep in mind that all of this can be done on a grinder/ disc but it will not be as accurate as using the true flat surface of the granite reference plate.

  • Using a granite reference plate and a large (12 x 12) piece of granite counter top cast off, you place 36 to 60 grit sand paper perpendicular to one another using spray glue. This forms a near perfect 90° angle that will allow you to square your handle blank rather easily. 
  • Remember to always check for squareness.

  • Using a pencil or any other marking method, mark the face you wish to flatten. This will allow you to see low and high points.
  • Taking special care to use equal pressure, rub the blank against the abrasive until your low and high spots are gone leaving a flat and smooth surface. Be sure to repeat this as many times as required until desired flatness is achieved.  As a side note, I like to start with "rough side" that resulted from the band saw rip. 

  • Using the 90° angle part of the jig, abrade your blank until both sides are perfectly perpendicular. Use the same marking method as before to check your progress.

  • Using a back-lit reference surface, check your work piece for "flatness and square." There should be no light whatsoever showing though, thus guaranteeing a uniform and flat face.

  • With a center finder, mark your center using 4 to 8 points of reference.

  • Measure the your tang and scribe your results onto the piece using your markings to center your measurements.

* A special thanks to my youngest son (11 in a few days) for volunteering his time to photograph this tutorial.